YOUR TOUR MORE IN DETAIL

THE VALDORCIA AND THE CRETE

The Crete - clays - are a valley of pastures between the hills of Montalcino, Montepulcino and a tall dormant volcano. It was one of the more rural and isolated parts of Tuscany, and therefore it has been awarded as an Unesco site, an example of pristine Renaissance landscape, where the time seems to have stopped. This unspoiled landscape of few hamlets and houses, and rolling fields that look like an oasis among the hills and mountains of Tuscany. It is peaceful and inspiring, as it was in the past, and in facts the Crete disclose a number of hermitages, picturesque parish churches, and  abbeys.  Our itinerary dedicates one day to Pienza and one day to Montepulciano town. We taste Vino Nobile, Orcia and the Pienza sheep cheese, the pecorino.

The Valdorcia is the first, hilly wine country thatyou see: vineyards, olive trees, and sparse stone farmhouses on the slopes, woods and towns on the hilltops.  Montalcino and its fortress, that you see from very far, commands the whole area, surrounded by the vineyards of the legendary Brunello. We take two days to immerse in the charme of Montalcino and its wines, starting in the southern area, and then reaching the top of the mountain, and the northern area.

Days 1-2 CRETE, PIENZA, MONTEPULCIANO

Along the more scenic, and quiet backroad, we reach the Crete, a landscape of clay rolling hills that are known for their dramatic colours, changing with the seasons. I’s a place of small farms with sheep and cattle. The farmers pride their pecorino cheeses, aged, and flavoured in many ways, and the majestic, prized ancient Chianina cattle breed, the best meat for a perfect Florentine steak. Back to the Cassia, originally a Roman consular road, we visit the secluded Monteoliveto abbey. Such place of silence and solitude conceals a major masterpiece: its cloister is a gallery of man-size St. Benedict frescoes, painted by two great Renaissance masters. Our road takes us through S. Giovanni, a truffle town, the quaint Asciano, and eventually to Pienza. We take a break in this tiny Renaissance architectural gem, we enjoy the breathtaking view on the Crete and the Amiata volcano, and we could visit a 13 centuries old parish church that shows mysterious Etruscan symbols side by side with the Christian ones. Before resting in our hotel we get the first wine tasting: the young and mellow Orcia and the classic Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.  The second day is completely dedicated to Montepulciano, first wine town. It sits on an isolated hill, the buildings clinging to stheer slopes, which is a good reason why it was built here. Walking up and down its steep steets, you see how a bimillennary story is summarized: Renaissance palazzi built above medieval walls, whith rock dug cellars that, in turn, among ancient barrels, conceal Etruscan tombs. From the highest square you enjoy a most scenic view of the Valdichiana, home of a light white wine, and of the celebrated Chianina cattle breed. You will taste the Rosso and the Vino Nobile in a family winery and in one of the ancient underground cellars downtown.

Days 3-4 VALDORCIA, MONTALCINO

Today we explore the southern, warmer slopes of the mountain. The Brunello that they produce are full, mellow, they feel, perhaps for the vicinity of the Thyrrenian sea, the are more ready to drink when you taste them. There are estates owned by the new money, from all over the world, jointly with older beautiful villas of noble Sienese families, it is surprising to find them sometimes hidden in the middle of a wood. along the way we visit an elegant abbey laying in the most picturesque setting, St. Antimo, a big French style Cistercian monastery dating back to Charlemagne. The second day, we explore Montalcino town, and the wineries close and around it, which are those where Brunello was created in late 1800, and where it gradually turned it into the more élitistic Tuscan wine. The town is a pilgrimage place for wine lover worldwide, it is small, but has all what it takes to enjoy it: a nice square, a museum, churches, the fortress, fine restaurants, and at last, amazing, open views on the Crete and on the Amiata volcano. We will pick our next Brunello tasting in the Montòsoli and Canalicchio terroirs, where some of the finest, prize-winning boutique wineries are located.

THE CHIANTI MOUNTAINS and SAN GIMIGNANO

There are Italian views that impressed many painters, and now moviemakers, because they are graceful and various, in order but natural. In the western imagination they epitomize a golden-age rural, but civilized countryside, an ideal place to live. Well, the Chianti hills are perhaps the best example inItaly. And they are real as you will see! It is a blessed land which enjoyed the civilization of Florence and Siena, but preserved its pristine bdeauty, because wise farmers and landowners changed the habitat without defacing it. They planted vineyards, olive grooves, and used the woods with respect, creating this elegant patchwork of fields and colours where where everything is humman-scale, and welcoming. One would say that they did it with a natural worship of beauty, that could be, perhaps, the real Etruscan signature on this land.

The southern Sienese and the northern Florentine Chianti hills are different, and recall two historical phases, that is why we explore them for two days or more. The first is rougher, steeper and higher, it preserves more forests, castles and old monasteries, recalling the medieval age when it was explored. The Florentine area, instead, is much more cultivated and recalls the Renaissance times, with more villas and new castles, open valleys, and larger villages. Their wines are different, of course, as you can read below. Besides this, we dedicate one day to visit San Gimignano, the town of the towers.

Day 5 HISTORICAL SIENESE CHIANTI

Today we travel in the higher Chianti mountains, on the castle route between Gaiole, Radda and Castellina. These towns pride to call Chianti Storico their vineyards, because it is right here that both the name and the wine, and later on the Black rooster concept originated. The landscape  definitely preserves the aspect of medieval times, when it was colonized: largely forested, steep valleys, fortified hamlets, and many beautiful castles. Some are romantic ruins, many others are wineries like Montegrossi, Brolio, where the Chianti blend was perfected, Meleto, or Volpaia, a massive dungeon with a peasant village grown around it, where the time seems to have stopped. We drive by Radda, where a bunch of visionary winemakers created the Chianti Classico consortium in 1968, which triggered the international rebirth of this wine.  The wines of this cooler area are rather  austere, and elegant, they reach their best with ageing. We will taste in one of the castles, or in a small, boutique estate which offers some of the best, though little known, bottles. A complete tasting will include a young Chianti Classico, a Riserva or a single vineyards wine, and IGT, often called Supertuscan, and a taste of Vinsanto, the rare late harvest Tuscan dessert wine.

Days 6  S. GIMIGNANO

Today we take  a break from the red wines, and we taste the Vernaccia, one of the few DOC white wines in Tuscany. This bold white is produced in San Gimignano exclusively, where the grape was selected in medieval times already. In the morning, in Colle Val d’ Elsa, we can visit a high quality lead crystal factory, the first in Italy for the production of classy wine glasses and artworks. It is a great, almost unbelievable experience to see how gently the crystal masters blow the scorching bubbles and create beautiful shapes within minutes. Next we visit a winery, the tastings here include a young and a riserva Vernaccia, and Chianti Colli Senesi, the local variety of Chianti. In San Gimignano we walk the main street up to the central squares, surrounded by the more beautiful towers that stood there for more than eight centuries. The city tower, the more impressive and tallest one, is 170 feet high - you can climb one of you wish -  next we see two twin towers, those that inspired architect Yamasaki for the other famous twin towers, and we reach the original stronghold of the city, where you get the best view on the countryside around you.  There will be time, for the art lovers, to admire the colourful frescoes in the Collegiata church, while others can relax or explore the shopping street. In the afternoon we take another tasting in another fine winery.

Days 7-8  FLORENTINE CHIANTI

The Northern Chianti has a milder climate, more open valleys, and is close to Florence, hence it is more cultivated and populated. Driving in the Pesa and Greve valleys we see a mosaic of vineyards and olive groves, delightful parish churches, stone farmhouses and Renaissance villas that make these places especially welcoming.  We start with the San Donato village, that keeps the original military outpost oval shape. Then, for our wine tasting, we reach one of the absolute best wine terroirs, the Golden Bowl, near Panzano, in which each winery is a top quality one. We see - and visit in case - Vignamaggio a Renaissance Villa, where the legend says that Leonardo painted Monna Lisa, and stop in Greve. A valley town with a characteristic triangular, porticoed square, which is a good place for a coffee or lunch break, to find souvenirs, including the best local salami. Later on we cross the hills again, we pass the tiny Montefioralle hamlet, and reach Badìa a Passignano, which grants one of the best Chianti post-cards views. A fortress, a watchtower, between woods and vineyards. This area is where a noble family, wine makers for centuries, the Marquis Antinori started their wine empire, and it is right here that the name Supertuscan became legendary, with the exclusive Solaia and Tignanello.

The northern Chianti wines here are smoother that the southern ones, and you can drink them sooner. One of these Chianti Classico is best to start and understand Chianti, the next steps will be a single vineyards and a Riserva. On the last day we keep visiting and tasting in Chianti, which is the largest wine zone in Italy, and - according to your departure time - we take you to the Florence or Pisa airport or train station.

Cities of art.

Florence and Siena, neither Lucca or Arezzo, do not appear in this program. For three good reasons: many people have been there already,  for a wine and food tour it’s much better to lodge where teh vineyards are,  and because both such cities deserve more than a quick tour. We love slowtravel! If you want to visit them, we suggest a 1-2 days extension before or after the tour, you can do in on your own, or with us as guides.